Intermittent contact is not good for the charger and you can't see the sparks in the water/solution anyway. Having the metal to be de-rusted well clear of the anode rods is a must. Making sure that I could swing it in all directions and it would not hit the anode rods. I dropped the rim into the solution allowing for it to be close to 3" or so below the surface. Note: While the charger was set at the 12 volt setting, I did notice that the action of the process was more pronounced in the amount of bubbling showing on the surface. I opted to use the 6 volt setting as the 12 kept the meter peg'd and the charger hum'd. The charger is of the low amperage type with a 6 volt/12 volt switch, some would call it a "trickle charger". Dogs are gone now, but I've still got the charger with teeth marks and newer clamps and electrical cord. The battery charger was one bought from NAPA about 35 or so years ago and has had two different generations of puppies chew the cord and leads off but has been repaired several times. I didn't seal the holes other than using a large area washer inside and outside of the barrels wall. I kept the water level about 3" below the rod bolts just for leaks sake. You'll be scooping a cubic yard of suds if you do. Try not to agitate the soapy water mixture while it is filling up. Checkįill the barrel with water and add 3 scoops of soda washing powder and a dash or 2 of the regular soda.
Positive wire ends soldered and tight to the rod studs. Ok, final check, rods bolted to the barrel, check. Guess I wanted to see which would work better. I made a dash Saturday evening to Walmart and picked up a large box of the Arm and Hammer washing soda powder and a few boxes of the regular soda as well. Yes the rod ends are painted red to make sure the "charger hooker upper" makes sure to use the positive clamp. Pics 1 and 2 show the wiring and rods with the final water level. I guess I wanted to have the complete circumference of the rod to be available to the solution. I allowed for the rods to not rest on the side of the barrel. The height of the holes leaves about 2" of clearance from the bottom of the tank to the bottom end of the hanging rods. I spaced the rods/holes on the barrel close to 9" or so and the spacing looked about close enough for the eye. I had 3 pieces of 6' re-bar about a 1/2" in diameter.
Just MIG'd the bolts at a 90 deg to the rods. Nothing special was done to the rods prior to welding the bolts. Other wise, the mouth will collapse in some instances, making it less useful. Cutting inside the top allows the top ring to assume a stiffener type roll and keeps the barrel top "in the round". Just make sure you cut inside the top and not on the outside of the top.
#CURRENT RUST SHOP FREE#
The barrel is of the chemical type made of thick and fairly hard plastic/PVC/rubber(?) (they were free and don't glow in the dark anymore). I used what wire I had as I didn't feel it necessary to open a new roll when I had several feet rolled up and hanging on a nail. But as usual and being the anal-retentive that I am, I used crimp connectors and couldn't bring myself to not solder the connections anyway. It was a simple task to make up the connectors. It is for those projects of rusted worth that blasting or other cleaning methods would degrade or ruin the piece. But remember, it's not an instantaneous process. More so than blasting with sand or other grit materials. If the item is made up of several items as in an assembly, it will work wonders. First off let me tell you, this process kicks butt for rust removal.
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